Donor Motor Info: 2011 Duramax LML, 212,000 Miles, Snapped Crank
You've got the donor motor home, on the stand and ready to tear into it! I get it. I wanted to do the same thing. Lucky for me I was, due to the previous owner unplugging the entire wiring harness. I was going to make an entire blog about removing the wiring harness and labeling everything. Well, that tedious job was taken away from me. I don't know if I am happy about it or not?
Now we have to move onto removing the EGR System and supporting components. Now, let me tell you, if you are doing this on the truck this job isn't the most enjoyable. This is due to having very little room to move in the engine bay. WAY WAY WAY more enjoyable when its in the garage on a stand let me tell ya. I've done it both ways, I've earned my stripes! Doing it on the stand will take you about 25% of the time it would if you had to crawl around up to. The previous owner did have things already removed for some reason so this unfortunately can not serve as a complete guide. I tried to get as detailed as possible!
Enjoy!
The main wiring harness removed from the motor.
You will need a 12mm and 13mm socket with an impact or ratchet. First is to remove the Grid Heater, and Intake Runner removal. This consists of removing the (1) 12mm bolt, (2) 13mm bolts, and the Intake Runner Unit.
(Click through the pictures and remove the bolts in the red circle.)
You will need a 12mm and 13mm socket with an impact or ratchet. Next is to remove the EGR Pipe, this consists of removing the (2) 12mm bolts, (2) 13mm bolts, (2) gaskets, and the EGR Pipe.
(Click through the pictures and remove the bolts in the red circle.)
You will need a 12mm and 13mm socket with an impact or ratchet and also a Breaker Bar. Next is to remove the right side EGR Valve. This consists of (4) 13mm Bolts, (3) Gaskets, and the EGR Valve.(Click through the pictures and remove the bolts in the red circle.)
You will need a 13mm and 14mm socket with an impact or ratchet and also a Breaker Bar. Next is to remove the right side EGR Cooler. This consists of (2) Nuts and (2) Bolt, (3) 13mm Bolts, (2) 14mm Bolts, (1) Gaskets, and the EGR Cooler. The two rear bolts that are 14mm, is where you will use the breaker bar. These suckers are defiantly tough to get out. Don't try and use a impact here as you will more than likely round off the bolts. The breaker bar really shines here. There are also 2 nuts and 2 bolts on the back of the EGR Cooler that holds the Up-Pipe to the Cooler. I do not know the size of these nuts as the previous owner took them off for some reason. Also there are is a rubber coolant line that needs to be disconnected. I've found that its easier to cut with a razor blade since I will not be reusing it.
(Click through the pictures and remove the bolts and rubber hose, in the red circle.)
You will need a 14mm socket with an impact or ratchet. Next is to remove the right side EGR Cooler Support Bracket. This Consists of (2) 14mm Bolts.
(Click through the pictures and remove the bolts in the red circle.)
Now look at how much was removed. The whole top of the motor is now open and ready to be worked on. They really do call it a weightless for a reason.
Do yourself a favor and keep all the bolts and nuts you have removed and throw them into a box. You never know when you will need something in the future!
Stay Tuned for Part 3!
Product List:
Info: All products I used are linked below. Now while the Milwaukee M18 Impact and Paint Pen is the only thing on the list that I used personally, everything else on in is comparable. I linked it all through Home Depot as it is easily one of my favorite stores and there is usually one near everyone.
Milwaukee M18 Impact: Click Here
6" Extension: Click Here
10" Extension: Click Here
Universal Joint: Click Here
1/2" to 3/8" Adapter: Click Here
12mm Socket: Click Here
13mm Socket: Click Here
14mm Socket: Click Here
24" Breaker Bar: Click Here
Milwaukee Paint Pen: Click Here